These 3D graffiti block letters are fun to do, and getting them down vertically is a good option to have in your arsenal when there isn't a lot of space. Vertical letters squeeze into a lot of spots that horizontal letters just won't fit. Here's how I run through them, start to finish; sketch, shading, and all the grimy details that give them character.
Start With a Basic Cube
I sketch everything out first with a needle cap. The first thing you want is a basic 3D cube; this is the container your letters are going to live in. Don't overthink the size; go bigger than you think you need, since you'll be dividing it up. If you push a side out too far, no big deal. Half the time I go a little too far out on one side and just run with it.
Divide the Cube Into Sections
Once you've got the cube, separate it based on how many letters you have. My name is three letters, so I split it into three. As you divide, try to imagine what the perspective is doing and carry that same angle across each section. It doesn't have to be perfect; mine's usually a little off and I run with it, but keeping the perspective consistent is what sells the 3D later.
Lock In Your Letters
Now you sketch your actual letters inside those sections. This is where you make it yours. I usually kick the B out a little, and I like to follow the same direction line across the letters so they stay in the same perspective. I also put a little separation between each letter so they don't run together. On the S, I like the top part to not go quite as far out, so the bottom kicks out instead. If something's bugging you, like a line you pushed too far, fix it now before you start laying down color.
Add Your Shades of Gray
For the 3D, I keep it quick and dirty with a few shades of gray. A slightly darker gray goes on some parts of the 3D, and the darkest shade goes in the deeper spots. Pay attention to the angle of each letter: because these are angled up, you'll see a little of the *bottom* of the 3D on most letters, so those faces angle in. But on the S, the angle flips, so you actually see a bit of the *top* of the 3D instead. Matching the shading to the angle is what makes the depth read right.
Weather the Edges
Lately I've been adding a slightly darker color around the edges to make the letters look a little more worn. Be loose with it; you're just hinting at a weathered, aged look, not outlining cleanly. A heads up from my own mistake: watch that you're not accidentally mixing warm and cool colors when you grab your cans, or the palette can fight itself.
Bring In Texture With the Needle Cap
Switch to the needle cap for details. I'll mist in some texture, and if a color came out too dark, I'll mist a lighter tone over it to pull it back. You can also add small bits of color variation into the lower 3D sections; nothing too crazy, just enough to keep it from looking flat.
Outline and Grunge It Up
I do my initial outline with the stock cap, then come back over it with the needle cap to grunge it up; extra grime, cracks, and details. You can paint your outline totally clean if that's your preference and it'll look great. I just like mine sort of grimy and cracked.
Finish With a Border
To finish, I hit it with a dirty light blue border; a force field, or whatever you want to call it. Same deal here: clean works perfectly fine if that's your style. Mine's loose and dirty because that's what I like.
And that's the gist of it. Once you've got the cube and your sections locked, just paint; you'll discover a lot of ideas as you go. If you have any follow-up questions, let me know.
Full Transcript
All right, let's do these 3D vertical blocks with spray paint. I'm going to sketch with the needle cap. The first thing you want to do is get a basic cube; go bigger. I went a little too far out on that side, but okay, like that.
From there, you separate the cube depending on how many letters. I have three letters, so I try to imagine what the perspective would be and carry it across. It's a little off, but we're going to run with it.
Then I start to lock in my letters. I usually kick the B out a little, so I pull it out further, and this line follows the same direction as this one. I like to put a little separation between the letters. On the S, I like the top part to not go quite as far out, so the bottom kicks out. That's the basic sketch. This part was really bothering me; I went too far out here, so I'm going to fix it. That's good enough.
All right, I'm going to do a few shades of gray; quick and dirty. A slightly darker gray for these parts of the 3D, and the darker shade for these. Because it's angled up like this, you'd see a little of the bottom of the 3D, so this angles in. On the S, the angle's different, so you'd see a little at the top of the 3D instead.
Lately I've been adding a slightly darker color around the edges so it looks more worn. I haven't done that with spray paint yet, so I don't know how it'll look. I didn't realize I was mixing warm and cool colors when I picked these, but okay; hopefully this adds a little weathering look around the edges. Just be loose about it.
Then I do some needle cap details; mist in some stuff to give it texture. Since that color was kind of dark, I'll mist some of this on to pull it back. I'll also take this gray and add a little color variation in the lower 3D sections. Nothing too crazy.
I do my initial outline with the stock cap, then grunge it up with the needle cap. I want the outline sort of grimy and cracked, but you can paint this clean if that's your preference. Then I come back with the needle cap and go over the outline, adding grime, cracks, and details.
I'm going to finish it with a dirty light blue border, or force field, or whatever you call it. If clean is your thing, this would look perfectly fine clean too. I like doing these. Anyway, that's the gist of it. If you have any follow-up questions, just let me know.
